Owning a perfect jacket | Affordable Made To Measure Suits

Let's talk about the fitting of suit jackets. Taking a closer look at the jacket's collar, you should know that your collar should lie against the back of your shirt collar, which in turn, should lie against your neck.

You want to make sure there's no significant gaps in between your jacket collar and the collar of your shirt. Moving onto the shoulders, you want to make sure that your seam hits where your shoulder ends. There shouldn't be any wrinkling. Sometimes, cheaply made suits will wrinkle right at that point, and there shouldn't be a divot in the shoulder. Divots usually happen when the shoulders are too tight. Make sure that the shoulders aren't too tight or too large because it's going to be pretty costly and difficult for a tailor to fix again. With regards to arm holes, luckily today, most suits are made with higher armholes. Make sure that it's not so high that it's literally cutting into your armpits.

A lot of the older suit styles had the arm holes cut bigger and it actually made the jacket look extremely broad and terrible. However nowadays, you don't have that problem, but just be careful. You want higher arm holes, but not so high that it cuts into your armpits. With your jacket sleeves, you want to make sure it's a nice tailored fit throughout the arm. You don't want it to be so tight that it's hugging your muscles but not so loose that you lose the shape of your arm.

With regards to the perfect sleeve length, a great test which has been used for years is to bend your wrist with your palms facing down. The jacket sleeve should end a quarter of an inch above the bend of your wrist. That way, half an inch or lesser of the shirt sleeve cuff can peek through which makes any suit look contrastingly sexy. Also make sure that the jacket lightly hugs your midsection making a Y or V (for upper torso) shape. It shouldn't create a nasty X or an O. It will simply mean that it's too tight if it creates this kind of X or too loose with the O shape. Make sure that a well-fitting suit should hug the natural curve of your back too.

Having done these few things, you can tell if a suit jacket fits nicely or poorly. Now, check your button stance. That's also very-very important. Please make sure that the top button hits just above your belly button, nothing higher or lower because it actually starts to throw off the proportions of your body. While you're at it, for a two-button notched lapel suit, always, fasten the top button but never do the bottom button.

Now, this leads us to the length of the jacket and one should know that the length of the jacket dictates how balanced your upper body is to your lower body. If you're 5'9" and under, you want the length of your jacket to hit mid crotch. If you're taller, then end it around mid to lower crotch. A tailor can always take up the length of the jacket by about an inch, but nothing more than that because then it starts to throw off the proportions of the jacket.

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