Creating a beautiful bespoke shirt is a work of art and it takes great expertise and efforts to make a beautiful shirt. A shirt which drapes your body perfectly and makes you look appealing, show casing your beautiful human form. A shirt is not just a piece of clothing but it is your next best skin.
So, let’s throw some light on the process of making a bespoke shirt from scratch. The most important thing required for making a quality shirt is the fabric. If the fabric is not up to the mark then no matter how much efforts you put into it, the end result will never be satisfactory. Therefore, one should always be very wise in choosing the fabric or fabrics for their shirts. The best option is to go for cotton and silk blends and if you live in a very hot and humid environment, then one should opt for cotton and linen blends. Not only these fabrics look and feel amazing but they also ventilate much better than any other fabric to keep you cool and dry.
The next thing to consider in a fabric is the colour and texture. Don’t go for very dull and boring colors but rather go for colors which are bright and attractive. If you are buying a shirt for night wear then you may go for fabrics which are a bit shimmery and glossy, in order to reflect light and also display your body definitions in great details. Satin, poly-satin and rayon are somewhat best options for this purpose.
Moving on from fabrics, one should now focus of the second most essential factor in the making if a shirt, which is measurement. An accurate measurement which result into a beautiful shirt and mistakes during this time can ruin the entire project. Nowadays, taking measurements is not just limited to measuring tapes but there are some modern inventions which help determine the best size and measurements for a client. One such instrument is the Perkin Shoulder device, a part of the Perkins measuring instruments which help in accurate measurement of shoulder slopes from the neck. Both the shoulder slopes can vary in one individual and therefore, this measurement is very important for a perfect fit.
Remember that the shoulders of a shirt are the most crucial part. If have a proper structure and fall, rest of the shirt easily becomes structured and defined. Now, about taking the measurements of rest of the shirt.
For collar - The tailor or the measuring person should always keep in mind to keep two fingers below the measuring tape when the circumference of the neck is measured. This way the collar has perfect fit, it is neither too loose nor too tight.
Shoulders - For measuring the shoulders, measure from the most exterior end of one shoulder to the other, taking the take over the shoulder blades. This gives the best measurement for the shoulders. These should not be loose to make the shirt saggy from sides or too tight, that it won’t fit.
Sleeves - For taking the sleeve measurements, the tailor should ask the client to hand the arm loose and clench their fist. Then place the measuring tape on the nape of the neck and passing it on the shoulder, end-drip rag the tape to the middle of the knuckles. Now subtract an inch and a half from it. That should be the perfect measurement for the shirt sleeve.
Cuffs and biceps- The cuffs are the easiest to make and one should keep two fingers underneath the tape while taking the circumference measurements of the wrists. This way the cuffs are neither too tight nor too loose but fit perfectly. Similarly, for the biceps keep the margin of around one to two inches for a perfect fit.
The front and back of the shirt – From the front of the client, take a measuring tape and place it on the neck crack (side of the neck). Then, let it fall freely till the bottom of the customer’s rise. That’s how long the front of the shirt should be. The same goes for the back of the shirt, place the measuring tape at the nape of the neck and then let it fall till the bottom of the seat and that is the best measurement for the back length of the shirt.
Of course all these measurements can vary depending how tight (fitting) or loose a shirt, the customer wants, according to occasion and body structure. Basically, there are three fitting which are very popular in the current market and they are Euro fit, classic fit and trim fit.
After all these measurements are completed, the shirt fabric can be cut into various pieces for arms, collar, cuffs etc. and then stitched together and the client can come once for a fitting session and check if everything is as desired or not. If there are any problems then they can be addressed and adjusted in the fitting/trial session. After this the shirt can be finally made and delivered to the customer. This ends the journey of a bespoke shirt which will continue to make its owner look well dressed and handsome for many years.